Moss Motors, Ltd

I teach at Caldwell High School, and right now our school's Auto Shop teacher, and our advanced Auto Shop class, as well as myself are a little stumped.

 This past summer we pulled the engine and detailed the everything under the bonnet, new paint, etc., including the engine. After installing, and trying to start we had fuel leak from the tupe connected to the jet on the front carb. Closer inspection revealed that I had cut the tube when cleaning the carbs. I ordered two new jet assmeblies from MOSS, and installed them. We started the car set the timing, adjusted the carbs, and it ran great! I drove the car for several days, occasionally it would have trouble starting, then it wouldn't start at all. I replaced the floats, and the "pin" valves with new floats and the new "ball-bearing" style valves. We are getting fuel into the chambers but it is still not starting.

We have disassembled and reassembled the carbs several times, adjusted the choke and choke assembly, compression is good on all four, spark is good, plugs are not wet, timing seems to be correct, checked valves and adjusted are at spec and working. I have pulled the jets, fuel is come out when they are lowered below the fuel chambers, however when attempting to start there is not a visual "Spray" of fuel in the carb, more like a seeping. What should that look like?

Anybody got anymore ideas?

Wing,

It seems like you've covered all the high spots, as your situation would suggest you should! Without knowing more I'd say you're trying to run it on water instead of gasoline!! Check for two things. One would be a pretty bad vaccum leak, perhaps where the carburetter(s) meet the heat shield, or the insulating blocks themselves which have been known to crack wide open. The other is the points. I know you said the spark seems good, but remember that when the plug gap is in the chamber it's resistance goes up due to compression and/or heat. If the point gap isn't just right on these engines they'll drive you nuts cranking without starting. There also have been some bad seconday ignition parts in circulation lately. Rotors are especially suspect. Some will short right down through the center and ground into the distributor shaft. Also check the distributor cap for tracking and the nose of the coil, which I always clean with electrical cleaner and spray with silicone spray for an extra measure of insulative protection.

Let us know what you find.

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Motorbill
From Lola to Land Rover, If it's British and has wheels, it's likely I've bloodied me knuckles thereupon

Wing,

Not for nuttin', but I recently rebuilt my carbies with a kit from Moss. After much frustration, I determined that one of the needle valves was defective. I replaced it with the old one and the problem was solved. Thank God I save all the old parts for 1000 miles or so.

By the way, you didn't mention if you have upgraded to electronic ignition. If so, which type, optical or magnetic?

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On their death bed, nobody ever said, "Gee I wish I'd spent more time at work!"