Moss Motors, Ltd

On my 1960 TR-3A, I can set the choke manually under the bonnet with the cable disconnected and I can freely operate the cable if it is disconnected from the linkage, but I cannot move the cable from the dash if it is connected to the linkage.  Is there any hope for a cure?

Thanks in advance for any suggestions on what to try.  

Crank,

A fresh, new cable with no kinks or sharp bends, lubricated with white lube should solve your problem.

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Motorbill
From Lola to Land Rover, If it's British and has wheels, it's likely I've bloodied me knuckles thereupon

Thanks for the advice.  I'll try your solution, however I didn't think of that because it is fairly free when disconnected at he carb.

Crank,

If the cable is solid wire core, it's amazing how little distortion will make it nearly impossible to pull. EVERYTHING in the system has to be optimal for these chokes to operate well. If things aren't just right down where the outer jacket ends, you may not get the choke to shut off all the way. When we adjust these, we always leave the knob out about an eigth of an inch with the linkage fully home in the off position. That way you have some"reserve" to make sure a good push on the knob will shut it down completely.

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Motorbill
From Lola to Land Rover, If it's British and has wheels, it's likely I've bloodied me knuckles thereupon

Motorbill:

 

I'm back at the choke issue.  I have what I take to be an "original type" cable, that is the inner cable is a braided wire.  It seems that the casing behind the instrument panel is encroaching on the heater.  Can it be the heater has somehow fallen out of position?  It rests on the two rails but I really don't recall anything like this crowding under the dash of the '62 TR3B I had in the 60s.  I plan to order another "original type" cable from Moss, but would like your opinion on the crowded cable housing.

Thanks for your great input.

Crank 

 

Crank,

Well, I'm not looking at an example of your car, so I'm not sure just how things should run, or how badly the heater interferes. I will say that the less these cables divert from straight, the better they operate. Are you sure you have the correct cable? with the correct length hard housing behind the dash? and located in the right opening?

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Motorbill
From Lola to Land Rover, If it's British and has wheels, it's likely I've bloodied me knuckles thereupon

I'm not sure of the cable, nor the length of the housing, but it is in the correct opening.  The cable was with my car when purchased, but the inner cable was not fastened to the brass shaft inside the housing.  All appeared to be new except the housing.  Also the housing extends 4.25 inches behind the dash which seems quite a bit.  I am going to install the new cable when it arrives & trust that I can make it work.

Thanks