Moss Motors, Ltd

I am in the process of reassembling the front suspension on my 1950 TD. I will be replacing the original rubber bushings with modern neoprene bushings. They are very pretty.

In the MG Midget Shop Manual there is a reasonable description of the proper method of the reassembly process however, the shop manual predates the advent of neoprene bushings.The manual describes how when tightened properly the surfaces of the original bushings do not actually move across the metal surfaces of the bushing housing but that the motion of the A-frames are allowed buy the flexing of the internal rubber.

Herein lies the problem. The modern neoprene is not nearly as flexible as the original rubber and most likely does not act in the same manner.

So, the questions are:

Do the modern neoprene bushings require lubrication? And, how tight should I make the castle nuts on the A-frame pivot arms?

 

Stub,

I've not heard of neoprene bushings for this application. I've heard of polyethelene and something called "Prothane", as well as Teflon or even Delrin. If you have neoprene, you have something on me. Most of the alternative material bushings come with some form of silicone or Teflon grease for assembly.

When assembling, no matter which type bushing you use, the castelated nuts tighten right down to the shoulder on the pivot pin. (with the big flat washer included of course) There is no specific torque, just tight plus the next castelation. If you don't do so, it'll loosen up and get sloppy...or worse.

One hint: Assemble everything, but leave the castelated pivot nuts loose. Then put the car on the ground. Now bounce it down and up a few times to normalize everything. Tighten the nuts and install the split pins (cotter pins) and you're ready to rock.

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Motorbill
From Lola to Land Rover, If it's British and has wheels, it's likely I've bloodied me knuckles thereupon

Motorbill,

You are quite right, it is not neoprene at all but a type of urethane.

When it comes to modern materials I get lost in the names. I just knew that it wasn't derived from latex from Malaya. Lets hope that the next time I go scuba diving I don't get a suit made of urethane.

Thanks for the help. Most likely if I had looked at the parts a little closer I would have recognized the shoulder on the pivot pin and could have saved you the effort and myself the embarrassment.

 

Stub

Stub,

No need for embarassment. I run pretty hard  to keep up with all the new materials technology myself. I've all but given up with personal electronics. Hell, my cell phone doesn't even take pictures, let alone book vacations or pick out appropriate wines and then drink them for me. And what's all this about pods?.......................

PS, Do use some kind of lube on those bushes, as many will creak and groan (Geez, more about me!) mercilessly without lube. I think some also can use a graphite grease. Enjoy.

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Motorbill
From Lola to Land Rover, If it's British and has wheels, it's likely I've bloodied me knuckles thereupon

Stub, I just finished installing new bushings in my lower A-frames. To install the bushings I used liquid dish soap and my bench vise to press them in. the final insertion to make the bushings the same distance on both sides was done with a hard rubber mallet. My understanding is there will be no rotation of the bushings in the a-Frame but rather a flexing of the bushing. The stiffer the material the stiffer the ride. Motorbills advice about bouncing the car prior to tightening the castle nuts is exactly right as this allows the bushings to be a neutral state in normal conditions. Good luck!

Earth has used the rubber and steel one piece MGBGTV8 bushings (Moss # 280-498), from what I think I hear. Stub is using two piece plastic bushings. The parts are inserted one from each side.

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Motorbill
From Lola to Land Rover, If it's British and has wheels, it's likely I've bloodied me knuckles thereupon

Thanks for the clarification Motorbill. Earth had me wondering...Dish soap and rubber mallets?....mine just popped in. Unfortunately they did not come with any kind of lube so a little graphite will be applied.

 I wonder how long that will last?

I also installed the ureathane bushings in my TD.  Do indeed apply a light coating of silicone or Teflon grease, or folks will hear you coming several blocks away from the suspension squeeks.  So far, I'm going on 7 years with no need to recoat the bushings - if ever.

If you haven't done so already, install the Pertronix ignitor unit.  You won't believe how much better that old XPAG will run - even an extra hp or two.

Dick,

Thanks for the advice on the ignition upgrade. When the time comes, that is the way I had planned to go. Also, I have read of a modern upgrade of the fuel pump innards. Are you familiar with that also?

Stub

Stub:

...Also, I have read of a modern upgrade of the fuel pump innards. 

Stub

See my web site at: http://homepages.donobi.net/sufuelpumps/

Cheers,
Dave 

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Cheers,
Dave
http://homepages.donobi.net/sufuelpumps/