Moss Motors, Ltd

Here is my problem I restored the car completely , At the time I bought a replacement pump from Moss (made in Canada) it had a 1/4 inch outlet the new pipes I also purchaced matched perfectly . The carbs sometimes were flooding so I switched jets to grosse and fixed it for a while . Started to smell gas while driving.. (sometimes).I found carbs were still flooding out intermittently. Changed out Fuel pump to Rebuilt orig type with lever primer. installed new gas tank due to rust problem , installed new outlet pipe 5/16ths to match fuel pump outlet. The Problem still came back. installed fuel press reg.(broke my heart to put in Non orig. part) solved prob. but would only work if I put it on 5lbs as the engine would starve for gas. Changed out Carbs with New SUs from Moss. removed pressure reg. Problem came back. I read somewhere that the float level can be adj. to just 3/8ths of an inch above the bridge .instead of the 7/16ths as set in the manual.  so I adj.my float level. to that.. The prob. went away . finaly I  have fixed this nagging prob.I said.  I went to start it the other day and Yep. front carb dumping gas like it was on sale.. Getting Real disgusted here.. I am now continplating changing out the fuel pump again and also going with New Gross jets.       Help me the Gremlins are killing me

Jag,

Wow, you've thrown a lot of money at this problem, but it seems that each time you disturb the fuel system you solve the problem temporarily. Therein, I think, lies the clue we need to heed. New fuel tank aside, there may be crap in your fuel system which is getting stuck in the float valves.. You state that the car was completely restored. Did you replace all the fuel lines front to rear, hard and soft?

Also, modern fuel contains alchohol which degrades standard rubber fuel lines, breaking off tiny little chunks and sending them downstream. We now use nothing but fuel injection grade hose, which is formulated to hold up under these conditions. SOMETHING is getting stuck in your float valves.

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Motorbill
From Lola to Land Rover, If it's British and has wheels, it's likely I've bloodied me knuckles thereupon

Ah I wish it were that easy. I have replaced everything in the fuel sys. Lines hoses, Cked the jets right after they flood out and find them absolutly clean and operational holding down the arm and blowing through the pipe they seal well however as soon as I put them under pressure from the pump they overflow I have tested the pump and it puts out 2.5 lbs press.  It is possible that I have aTR4 engine but I don't know if that would make a diference in fuel pressure , I even though about fuel cam through . Do  all Pumps have the same arm?

Jagawar, somewhere along the line I've heard that shims (spacers) between the pump and the engine block can adjust the throw of the pump's arm and affect the pressure. I have no experience doing this, just something I've heard.

I have heard the same thing.. However I just went out and fooled around starting from the basics and found my pump pressure is 1.5 lbs not 2.5 at crank speed,  I also found that I had changed out the rear jet to Gross jet (had one kicking around)after the carbs flooded out the last time , It must have gotten stuck from sitting. and I changed it to the orig. one that came with the carbs. engine started right up and ran  perfect. now that I am up and running again .. I still know this flooding prob will not end..  I am still looking for the right solution on the fuel pump issue.. I am planning to purchace a small pressure gauge and install it just before the lead carb so when it floods I can get a glimpse of the pressure.. I think I have all but rulled out the carbs as a problem.  If I indeed have a TR4 engine I need to cypher the numbers and maybe find out that that engine requires the spacer block I keep hearing about..